Sunday 15 July 2007

O brothers where art thou?

I am completely enchanted with Krakow right now. We are staying at a place called the Globetroter Inn (I know it is spelled wrong; I don't think that they do) which is about a block from the Main Market Square. We arrived here yesterday in time for a late supper (amazing) and some time to wander around the main drag. Krakow is about the same latitude as Edmonton, so it stays light quite late this time of year, and the long evenings are full of street performers of all sorts. We couldn't believe how alive the square was last night, and it is filled and exciting tonight as well.

Apparently, this year marks Krakow's 750th birthday so there are even more events than usual. Last night in our strolling we went into St. Mary's Church on the aquare and stumbled into a performance of choirs from France who are here for an International Choir Festival. It was incredible so hear such beautiful singing in such an equally impressive setting. There were also various plays happening. Main Market Square is divided in two halves by Cloth Hall ("the oldest shopping mall in the world" contains booths selling area specialties: amber, woodworking and wicker). Tonight while we were eating supper we noticed an interesting assortment of characters heading in one direction. We found them assembling at the Barbican Gate (entrance to the Old Town) and then got ahead of them in time to watch their very lively and colourful parade. I still have no idea what it was about, but it was sure fun to listen to and watch!

The food here is divine. The lovely girl at our inn recommended a few places to eat as well as areas we should be sure not to miss. So far she is 5 for 5! Last night we dined on chicken kebabs, potatoes with butter, bacon & onion, and spinach. This morning we ate a veritable feast at Del Papa and we plan on going back for more of the same tomorrow and the next day. Tea, bread, rolls, eggs scrambled with something I haven't entirely identified yet (delicious whatever it was), honey, jam, butter, cottage cheese with radishes, and I can't remember what else all for 14 Polish Zloty; that is about $5-6 Cdn. This evening we went to "Miod i Wino" which translates to "Honey and Wine." Wow. While devouring our mixed pierogi platter (various fillings included spinch, meat, sourkraut & mushroom, and, of course, potato & cheese), we witnessed another table having a roast duck brought to their table and then chopped into four with a very large cleaver. Later the lights went out and they wheeled out a table with fire and grilled kebabs on a sword; we may need to go back and try one of those! I also tried mead fo rthe first time; it seems to be a much stronger relative of Hudderite wine. A little on the sweet side for me, but I am not sure that I am ready for the straight wodka yet.

Thankfully, we have also been walking so much that we can eat all these heavy meals with no negative consequences! We walked the Royal Way today; the route taken by the king when returning to what was the capital of Poland until 400 years ago. It is only a little over a mile, but with all the side roads to be explored and historical points of interest it took us from about 10am till 12:30pm. We explored Wawal Castle and cathedral before leaving the Royal Way to search for an English book store that we had heard of. I have gotten through both books that I brought along and Keith is reluctant to part with The Agony and the Ecstacy so that I can re-read it. I bought a novel set around Krakow which looks quite interesting.

Overall, Krakow is a bustling city filled with young people, exciting nightlife, and incredible food. My siblings should have come here with me!

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